Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen | What's The Difference?

Summer is the season of all things fun and carefree—whether it’d be hours surfing, lounging by the pool and sipping ice cold lemonade or traveling —it is a season that everyone looks forward to. 

Your skin, however, is probably not looking forward to it so much. UV rays and free radicals are  the culprits behind a myriad of major skin concerns—sunburns, melasma, hyperpigmentation, lines, wrinkles, inflammation, etc.  

Fortunately, sunscreen technology has evolved a lot in the past two decades. But, now there are an overwhelming number of SPF products and types of sunscreen, which can be hard to choose what’s right for you. 

Recently, the most burning question (pun intended!) in the SPF world has been about mineral vs chemical sunscreens. The debate has become quite heated, and the consensus is ever-changing. So, is there really a ‘better’ option when it comes to mineral vs chemical sunscreens? Is mineral or chemical sunscreen better?

What are Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens?

Mineral sunscreens use naturally occurring minerals like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to physically shield our skin against UV rays. 

Chemical sunscreens have UV filters made from organic compounds (chemical compounds that contain carbon atoms bonded to hydrogen, oxygen or other elements like nitrogen). These UV filters absorb UV rays and turn them into heat, so that they can’t penetrate deep into your skin and damage it. Chemical sunscreens are also referred to as ‘conventional’ or regular sunscreens.

To compare them, we first need to understand how they work. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), the difference between mineral sunscreen vs chemical is how they work and the chemical structure of the UV filters:

“ Chemical sunscreens work like a sponge, absorbing the sun’s rays. They contain one or more of the following active ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate. These formulations tend to be easier to rub into the skin without leaving a white residue. 

Mineral sunscreens work like a shield, sitting on the surface of your skin and blocking the sun’s rays. They contain the active ingredients zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Opt for this sunscreen if you have sensitive skin or adverse reactions to chemicals.”

Basically, chemical sunscreens are sponges and mineral sunscreens are shields. But, the answer isn’t always so clear cut. 

Some mineral sunscreens do absorb UV rays instead of reflecting them. There are also some UV filters that behave like both chemical and mineral sunscreens—both absorbing and reflecting UV rays. For example, the organic UV filter called Tinosorb M does both.

 

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen—Which is Better?

So, the sizzling question that everyone wants to know the answer to—mineral vs chemical sunscreen—which is better? Let’s break this down in terms of:

1. Effectiveness (SPF level)
2. Application and texture (white cast, greasy)
3. Skin type (sensitive skin, skin color)
4. Effect on the environment

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Effectiveness

This really depends on how you classify ‘effectiveness’. SPF is an objective way of measuring it because there are regulations and testing needed to establish this. 

According to the FDA, SPF (Sun Protection Factor) refers to the amount of UV radiation needed to burn skin which is covered in the sunscreen. So, if a sunscreen has a higher SPF, then it needs a lot more UV radiation to burn the skin. Basically, the higher the SPF, the better.

Also, note that all sunscreens must protect against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are smaller and can penetrate deeper into the skin to cause more damage. 

On average, mineral sunscreens cannot go into a very high SPF compared to chemical ones.

If you look around at sunscreens, you’ll find loads of chemical ones with SPF 50 and above—with some even reaching SPF 100. But, you won’t find very many mineral sunscreens that SPF 60 or above. Chemical sunscreens also offer better UVA protection compared to mineral sunscreen.However it has been proven that the effectiveness of sunscreen over 30SPF becomes obsolete. 

Winner? Tie

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Application & Texture

When it comes to application and texture, mineral sunscreens are notorious for being thick, goopy and leaving a white cast. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, have evolved far more rapidly in terms of texture, spreadability and ease of application.

A lot of cosmetic products with SPF often use organic sunscreens because they are easy to incorporate. On average, it is easier to find chemical sunscreens that are more lightweight and readily absorbed into the skin without leaving a white cast. 

The danger with mineral sunscreen is that in an attempt to not get a white cast, people may apply less sunscreen than is required for adequate protection. The general guideline is that you should apply at least half a teaspoon evenly across your face, for good protection. However, advanced science is now beginning to advance the spreadability of mineral sunscreen options and even leave the skin feeling moisturized and rejuvenated. In fact, some are even including moisturizing ingredients to help spreadability such as hyaluronic acid, green tea extract, apricot oil and zinc itself to help combat the aging process that is exacerbated by sun exposure.

So, for now it looks like chemical sunscreens win this round. However, some mineral sunscreens are becoming increasingly user-friendly and innovative. 

Winner: Chemical....but watch out as Mineral is really improving spreadability

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Acne, Sensitive Skin

If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, navigating sunscreens can be a minefield. A lot of chemical UV filters in the US have been linked to irritation and allergic reactions. UV filters like avobenzone, octocrylene, PABA and oxybenzone can all be sensitizing, cause long term skin damage and are the leading factor in the global coral reef crisis.

This is where mineral sunscreen actually does very well. They don’t cause the same level of irritation and sensitization that common organic UV filters cause. In fact, zinc oxide, a common mineral UV filter has been shown to even have anti-inflammatory properties. 

So, if you are someone with sensitive skin and worried about contact dermatitis, mineral sunscreens may be better for you. 

P.s. Always remember to do a patch test before applying new SPF products!

Winner: Mineral

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Effect On Environment

There has been a lot of buzz lately about sunscreens and damage caused to coral reefs. You may have heard about Hawaii’s ban on certain chemical sunscreens with UV filters like oxybenzone and octinoxate. 

The state saw an increase in the damage to their marine ecosystem and research groups have linked this to sunscreen being washed into the ocean as people go swimming and snorkeling. 

So, does this mean that mineral sunscreens are better for the environment? Not quite. A lot of mineral sunscreens use nano-particles of zinc and titanium dioxide. These have also been flagged as being potentially damaging to marine ecosystems.

Bottom line? Look for labels that say ‘reef-safe’ and mineral sunscreens that don’t use ‘nano’ zinc or titanium dioxide.

Winner: Mineral (that don’t use nanoparticles)

In conclusion

Choosing between mineral and chemical sunscreens depend on your individual skin conditions and preferences. Have sensitive or acne-prone skin? Go for mineral. Have dark skin and don’t want a white cast? An advanced mineral sunscreen with high spreadability or a ‘clean chemical’ sunscreen is your best bet.

At Sunmud, we respect that you have to make nuanced choices when it comes to something as personal as skincare. We offer advanced mineral-based sunscreen that rejuvenates and protects  your skin and is also  safe for our marine ecosystems.